5. Claim the floor, the door and the back wall
Three surfaces usually left empty. Take them in that order.
The floor under short garments takes a set of drawers or two stacked fabric boxes. Measure the clearance under the lowest hem and subtract two inches. Clear-fronted drawers beat opaque ones here because they sit in shadow — you want to identify the contents from the doorway. Shoes go on a two-tier rack rather than in a heap; a rack holds the same number of pairs in half the footprint and stops the back row disappearing.
The inside of the door is the most wasted plane in any closet. An over-the-door rack with shallow pockets handles scarves, belts, small bags, laundry supplies and the flat-pack things that never have a home. Check two things first: the door must clear the frame when closed, so measure the gap between the door edge and the frame rebate, and hollow-core doors will not take screwed fittings with any weight — use the hook-over type.
The back wall behind the rail takes adhesive hooks at 60 inches high for tomorrow’s outfit, or a slim over-rail hanging organiser for folded t-shirts. In a deep closet, a second short rail mounted on the side wall at right angles gives you a front-to-back section that suits jackets you want to see.
One caution on adhesive hooks: clean the wall with rubbing alcohol, press for thirty seconds, then wait an hour before loading. Most failures are impatience, not weight.